Chameleon Assessment Page

Owner Name:


Chameleon Species:

Chameleon’s Name:






Chameleon Info:

  1. The Species:
  2. Sex:
  3. Age/Date of Birth:
  4. How long has it been in your care?
  5. Wild Caught or Captive Bred?
  6. How much does it weigh?
  7. How long is it? Head to base of tail (no tail included)



  1. How often do you handle your chameleon?





  1. What bugs do you feed your chameleon?



  1. How many bugs per feeding?
  2. What is your bug schedule?



  1. What are you gut loading your feeders with?




  1. What brand of calcium NO D3 do you use? How often per week?


  1. What brand of calcium WITH D3 do you use? How often per week?



  1. What brand of Multivitamins do you use? How often per week?


  1. What OTHER Supplements do you use? How often?






  1. What kind of watering technique do you use?
  2. How often and how long do you mist?
  3. Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  4. Do you see your chameleon guzzling water each time, like he/her has been without water for days, although he had water earlier that day?






Fecal Description:

  1. Note colors and consistency from recent fecal?


  1. Has the chameleon ever been treated for parasites?
  2. Any previous information about your chameleon that might be useful to help?



Cage Information:


Cage Type:

  1. Describe your cage (glass, screen, combo?/brand)



  1. What are the dimensions of the cage?



  1. What brand of lighting do you use for UVB?
  2. Tube or bulb for UVB? Size?
  3. How often do you replace UVB bulb?
  4. Do you use a Solar Meter to meter UVB output?
  5. Do you use a Heat Bulb for Basking?
  6. What size bulb and brand do you use?
  7. How warm does it get in the basking zone? Can you hold you hand under it for several minutes without feeling too hot/burning?
  8. Do you use a temperature gun?



  1. What temperature range have you created?


  1. What is the temp of the floor of cage
  2. What is the temp of the middle of the cage?
  3. What is the hottest point of the cage on the top/basking area?



  1. What are your Humidity Levels?
  2. How are you creating and maintaining these levels?





  1. Are you using LIVE plants or fake?
  2. If real, What kind?



  1. Do you know if the Live plants are SAFE?



  1. Where is the cage located?



  1. Is it near fans, air vents, or high traffic areas?
  2. At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?






  1. Current Problem?






  1. When did this problem start?
  2. What signs did you notice?




  1. What do you think happened?



What would YOU like to learn



What I would have given 14 years ago, to have had someone HOLD my Hand, walk me through how to properly keep a chameleon Successfully for many years.

Reality Though…. I had to learn the Hard way, through experience. I didn’t have internet access at that time, there were no books on keeping them at the library, and I didn’t know of anyone who ever kept one before.

New Beginnings

I worked for a pet store several months before considering my purchase. I learned how to take care of them while there, and in my spare time, took them out, to hand feed and “bond” with them. I knew this was what I wanted to do all the time, not just for work.

I learned later that their Requirements were not being met properly, and this made me struggle enough to find the Knowledge on What and Why I was having problems.


I have been Observing, and gathering more information in 2014, than all the previous years combined, but because I figured out what I want to do, this passion has become easier for me to focus.

I decided that Weekly or Bi-Weekly vet visits would be a great addition to my Knowledge. This way I can focus on each case study with my vet and really get in depth. Only wanting to build my chameleon knowledge, I opted out of vet school, so I could focus. I am very fortunate to have a vet with over 35 years experience in exotics, that is willing to help me understand their problems.

I will be compiling my information and publishing it through my Blog mainly, then other articles and eventually a more in depth Medical Book. I want to help those who keep and work with chameleons through my experiences.

Knowledge is Power! By figuring out what you want to accomplish from keeping a chameleon, this will help you determine the next step.

Keeping Chameleons in Captivity

I believe on working together, I am open to new approaches, with little to no judgment. We all make mistakes. If we can learn from them, others too, we can ALL move forward in our Goals, whatever they maybe.


What are YOUR Goals? What would you like to Learn? How can I help you?

I want to create a Resource for those interested in the Basics, on up to the Intense Medical Problems chameleons can face.

Questions? Please email me at:

If I can’t help, then I can point you in the right direction.

Pip Necropsy Report


Click on Photos to Enlarge…

September 11, 2014 3pm


DOB – 9.4.10

Took In – 3.4.12

Death – 9.10.14 (10pm-3am)

Necropsy – 9.11.14 (3pm)



Wild Caught


Age: 3.5-4.5 yrs. Old

Weight: 402grams

Length: 31inches (head to tail tip)

SVL: 19inches (tongue to vent)



1. Heart – Normal

* We took some blood from his Heart to preserve for later testing/viral if needed.


2. Liver – Modeling/Mild

* Possibly from post mortem change.

3. Gallbladder – Full


3. Lungs – Prominent Pulmonary Vessels 


4. Stomach – Normal


5. Intestine 

* Acid Fast Done/ Check for Crypto

* NEGATIVE for Crypto


7. Fat Pads – Normal/Good Size


8. Spleen – Normal

11. Kidney – Good


12. Adrenal – Good

Histopathology Report

We sent a Full Set of Tissues in and are awaiting the Results. We will post this once in.

Murphy Necropsy Report


Click on Photos to Enlarge…

September 16, 2014 3pm

Murphy – Melleri Chameleon

DOB – 1.27.11

Took In – 1.27.13

Death – 9.16.14 (9am)

Necropsy – 9.16.14 (3pm)



Captive Hatched


Age: 3.8 yrs. Old

Weight: 420grams

* Never really gained much weight in 1.8yrs

Length: 23inches (head to tail tip)

SVL: 18inches (tongue to vent)


1. Foot Pad Lesions – (Left Rear & Right Front)

* Pox- Virus? Waiting to hear back…


2. Lesion inner thigh – (left rear leg)

* too proliferated of a lesion to be a scrape.


3. Fat Pads – Small

* Hemorrhagic on surface


4. Lungs

* Injected blood vessels

* Lumen looks Normal

* Vascular Congestion


What can cause vascular congestion?

  1. Weak Heart, not pumping strong
  2. Venus hypertension



5. Liver – Normal

6. Gallbladder – Normal



7. Heart – Normal

8. Spleen – Normal

9. Stomach – Normal

* 4cc Reasonable per feeding

* Can hold 6cc- Max Stretched/not recommended


10. Intestine – Normal


11. Kidneys – Gout

* Died from Kidney Failure

* More than 80% of Kidney damaged

* Gout/White crystals on surface/uric acid crystals


What is Gout?

Uric Acid buildup. Once there, you can’t get rid of it.

Flair-up is the inflammation caused by the uric acid.

What can cause Gout?

1. Toxins

2. Infections

3. Excess Protein

Can you tell/test how long this has been going on?

No. 😦

Would this show up in a blood test?

Yes, but Only if Kidneys were 80% or worse (Terminal Stages). Not helpful, since there is NO way to fix the problem at this point.

* When kidneys loose 80% of their function, they get sick and die.

12. Abscesses  

* left hip area, 3 on mid – end of tail tip


* The hip abscess had gram + cocci occasionally when we took a sample the prior week.

Abscesses – work their way to the surface

Should you cut open and clean?  Have to be careful if so.

Problems from doing so? You can extend into the Healthy tissue, causing to blow up more.

13. Ankle 

* Left rear

murphy ankle

* Old Fracture/Fibrous tissue

* Whitish material/old infection/abscess

* Dont know if there are any active organisms or not.

How to test for organisms?

murphy tissue details

Histopathology Report

We sent a Full Set of Tissues in and are awaiting the Results. We will post this once in.

Baby Melleri Chameleon Necropsies

My Intentions 

* Please NOTE: Graphic Photos to come, so please be Aware! 


I’m sad to say the Baby Melleri Project hasn’t gone the way I expected. I was hoping to acquire a few Baby Melleri Chameleons in hopes to see them grow up and document their progress. I thought 6 would be a good number to start with. This way I could keep focused and document without getting overwhelmed with a clutch of 40.

I am personally curious what Captive Bred Melleri vs. Imported Sub-Adults face in their lives. Their stresses, their illnesses and possibly living longer in captivity if they are brought up there.

Although this process has brought more heartache than joy at this time. I am glad to say that I have been able to learn what happened to each of the 4 that has passed so far. This research is very important to me and I am hoping to learn from this and use it when I am able to breed my own babies when it’s time.

Why I want to breed my own Melleri

Gregory & Melvin 2011

Gregory & Melvin 2011


I am very fortunate, so it’s not for the money. It’s about keeping this species alive and helping others be able to personally live with these Amazingly Social Chameleons! It’s neat to look back on research and see where people thought Melleri were not social. From my personal experiences and the love that has grown for this species…. I can say they “Are Social” in the right conditions and this brings so much Joy to me and I want to share this with the World. 🙂

If others get more involved and we can build a data base for this research, we can help these chameleons beyond what we are doing now. More people keeping = more vets working with illnesses = more Knowledge. KNOWLEDGE is POWER!


Background Information

2 at first, then ordered 4 more that day.

2 at first, then ordered 4 more that day.

I purchased 2 babies from a place in Florida. The mother came in pregnant and laid the babies there. I am still waiting on the details of how the were incubated and cared for/their environment before they got shipped to me at 17 days old.

I took a gamble and I am not mad, although I put a bit of money and time into the project. I just want to help them have a better survival rate next time. I believe they mentioned they had 39-40 eggs this clutch.

Speaking to other keepers/breeders, I am hearing a few things and I want to address them. Hope in time to be able to do more research and again, help.

Thoughts to Address

Thought 1. “Babies are sold as young as possible to make money before they all die.”

I can see this. Maybe it is true. Most breeders (Veileds and Panthers – being the more popular kind), those babies aren’t sold and distributed til at Least 3 Months old! So, their Survival Rate is better.

I was happy to get those babies as Young as possible, so they could be given my “specific chameleon care conditions” and to document their progress. The younger the better for me, but until I can breed my own, will I be able to experience this “whole” process of egg to baby to adult.

As approaching my new found Goal of Keeping Melleri alive and well and 2nd Goal of Breeding (keeping this species alive), I have just now been asking around about clutches/babies and breeding.


a. Most of the babies we see in captivity are from the females coming in pregnant.

b. A few keepers have a pair breed, but this is more a “1 time thing” vs. yearly able to successfully.

c. Most if not all the babies from clutches “die” unexpectedly. 

* This is why I am glad to be where I am in my Research. Although it saddens me, we need to address what is happening and correct it, and help teach so we can save these babies.

I have only had 2 Melleri baby experiences.


San Diego Reptile Show 6/18/2011 Baby Melleri for sale $125

1. Purchased a baby from California Reptile Show, it was 5 weeks old. It lived 2 more weeks, but ended up with a RI. The vet I was working with at the time wasn’t knowledgable and pompous. I made a real effort to get him into the vet for meds, since it was July 4th weekend. He said he was “fine” and $63 later, nothing. This was my indication to find a new vet that was more Qualified.

2 days after trying to help it get the meds it needed, I went to the Emergency vet and it died in the waiting room.  I wasn’t into the further research at the time. So I cried and went home. Later talking to someone who knew other people who purchased from the same clutch, with the same problems, they all ended up dead. 😦


6.24.11 (6 days later)


Cage set-up I was sold

Vet Bill, since I didn't take photos

Vet Bill, since I didn’t take photos



7.3.2011, when I knew he was dying.


Dying. 7.3.2011


7.3.2011 Dead

2. My new experiences with “Yolk” problems. At least this is what we are calling this problem, til the Pathology Report on Baby #2b comes back in a couple weeks.



Thought 2. Incubation and First few weeks of life have specific Requirements, but what are they?

Theory: Possible that the eggs were incubated at to high of a temp. Hatching prior to absorbing most or the yoke? Or are yolks supposed to be around still up to 2 weeks after being born?

Any info on this….much Appreciated. Until I can further my research by keeping Melleri eggs personally, I can only hope that anyone that has Melleri egg experience can kindly help out with details.


YOLK – I am new to this Yolk inside the body/attached to intestine. When I think of yolk, I think of egg and outside of chameleon. I will report my details soon.

Yolk attached to intestine

Yolk attached to intestine

So anyone with further research in this department, please email me:

Eggs and Egg Laying

Squirt laying 39 eggs. 5.25.14 - 2:38pm

Squirt laying 39 eggs. 5.25.14 – 2:38pm

I had a female (Squirt) lay eggs a couple months ago (May 2014), but they were infertile. I was sad, but happy she successfully laid eggs, so she was getting the right nutrients and conditions to help her have no “egg binding”. She laid 39 eggs.

* So far I have reports that females lay around 40 eggs per clutch.

Anyone with personal reports/photos, please email me:


Squirts eggs (39)

Squirt eggs, Infertile

Squirt eggs, Infertile

molded. Infertile.

molded. Infertile. 6.1.14 (7 days later)

Egg Incubation

I have heard that eggs take 4 months to hatch once laid. I have heard this from a couple sources, so this I can believe it true. Once I build my own research I can chime in.


Arrival of the Babies!

2 at first, then ordered 4 more that day.

2 at first, then ordered 4 more that day.

17 days New!  6.17.14

17 days New!

6 babies!!!

6 babies!!!

They are just too cute!

They are just too cute!


I purchased 2 of them. Once they arrived and I felt they looked “good”, I decided that 6 would be better for my research than 2. I guess it was meant to be for me to only have 2, since 4 have died now. I had all of them when they were 19 days old. The seller said they were born at the beginning of the month, but didn’t have to exact date, so I made it easy on myself and said June 1st 2014 was their “Hatch Date”.

I fed them mainly fruit flies, but had some mantis babies hatch the same time, so we tried those. I also gave silkworms and hornworms when I had some tiny enough to feed.

Mantis for breakfast?

Mantis for breakfast?


We knew they were eating and drinking, because we found fruit flies and liquid (in the dead ones stomachs).



The Necropsies…

* I didn’t mark them until I got down to 3. to tell them apart.

Baby #1a – Male




Baby #1a was found dead in the bottom of cage the morning of 7.14.14 (6weeks old). He had crusted fecal that didn’t look normal to me. I was able to get into the vet the same day for a necropsy.

The only thing Noted as ABNORMAL was the Yolk.


Yolk that should have be resorbed by week 6


I was worried that the others would die from this same thing, but tried to keep a positive outlook. As I checked on each of them daily, I decided to add a heat lamp to the set-up in case they needed to be warmer than 80 degrees during the day. Then mist them a few more times during the day.


Lights are off in photo. This was taken after bedtime.

Lights are off in photo. This was taken after bedtime.


I thought we were doing well, then I not only found 1 more dead, but 2! This really broke me heart. I was more in fear that everyone would die from the same problem.


7.19.14 – 5 days after the 1st died

I couldn’t get into the vet the same day (this was a Saturday), so I had to wait til Monday when he was in to call and see about a necropsy. I was able to keep them fresh in the refrigerator til then, but doing a necropsy asap is best.


Baby #1b – Female

baby #1b - yolk found

baby #1b – yolk found

So far, the rest of the organs looked “Normal” and vet saw no need to do Histopathology.

Baby #1c – Male

This chameleon had yolk as well. “not a good color” either.



All of the organs were reported as “normal”.

I wanted to make sure the last 3 got “Looked over” just in case I was missing something.


check-up on last 3 alive

I showed the vet that there was 1 that I was “concerned” about. She seemed a little slower, hung out in the middle of the cage in the plant vs. hanging out on the top where the others did in the daytime.

After my vet visit, I decided that the last 3 were going to get a special shower daily for a few minutes. This way I could monitor/observe them.

1 by thumb was the sick one

1 by thumb was the sick one

What the babies register at in the shower

What the babies register at in the shower


My First thing to do when I go into the Lizard Room is to check on the babies. The morning of the 29th (7.29.14), I was so upset. The 4th baby (#2b) was on the bottom of the cage. At least she was still alive and I was adamant about saving this one if I could.

I decided to document my process to help me. I First decided that Heat, Humidity, Water and Food was all I could do til I could call the vet and see about going in. But from what I learned from the last 3 experiences, there wasn’t much beyond this that I could do. But it was worth my efforts.


Baby #2b – Female

Observed her at First to assess what to do next

Observed her at First to assess what to do next





Looked like prolapsing, but it was a fecal

Looked like prolapsing, but it was a fecal




I tried to shower #2b to see if this would help. I think it was too late to save her.



She was 78 before I turned on the heating pad. I wanted to warm her up some and then try and syringe feed her some food. The warmth would help her body to process the already broken down Carnivore Care I mixed up.


The baby didn’t make it. I was aggravated, although I knew it was inevitable. I hope she knew I was there to help. I was glad this time that I was able to observe her seizing/paralysis vs. the other 3 that I just found dead. So, I learned a little more with this one. I am just curious if the others had the same issues.


Baby #2b – Necropsy – 7.29.14 


Check-up on last 3


Wanted to share some of my vet notes this time.


1. Paralysis was Bazaar

2. Yolk – not normal to have at 7 weeks old.

3. My room temperature of 74-80 – should be fine.

4. Seizure – Something in the brain

5. Paralysis – Could be brain or stroke or spinal cord problem

6. Stool check – Nothing in fecal or stomach/checked by microscope. (He through the slide away before I could ask to take a photo, but unless we find stuff I normally dont ask). (NO – Parasites and Protozoa, worms or eggs)

*Vet did find fly legs/parts, so it was eating.

HUGE Yolk! Not Good at all!!!

HUGE Yolk! Not Good at all!!!


We decided to run a FULL Tissue Histopathology Report this time, to make sure if it was the Yolk causing the problems or if something else could have contributed. Especially when we discovered the Paralysis and Seizure before death.



All of the organs looked “Normal” in the vets findings, but the Histopathology will give more depth, so I will update and add this report once I get in back in 2 weeks.

Full Tissue Samples to send to Lab

Full Tissue Samples to send to Lab


How about a little more info? 


How does this Happen?

VET: Usually Incubation Problem.

1. Too much Humidity

2. Too Low of Temperature. ( too cold = sick) – Chilled and everything slows down.

* Should be all gone. Used up by First week of life.



1. It attaches (yolk) by little stalk to the intestine. Its supposed to meter into the intestine and thats what feeds them for a period of time. (In the egg & after hatch out).

Yolk is attached to intestine. (Normal). They are supposed to resorb this.

They grow around it and blood supply. It gets incorporated into their body wall and the umbilicus seals over. Then their body should still eat the rest of that yolk up.

What else can you do for them? Water, Warmth & Humidity is all.

Damage is Done. As far as the yolk not being resorbed in the 1st week of life is when they do their resorbination and vet thinks what is happening is they are not resorbing completely



QUESTIONS TO ASK/Waiting to hear back from breeder:

1. How long  was incubation was for?

2. What temp and humidity they were kept at?

3. What temp and humidity you kept the babies at once born?

4. How many days total it took from 1-40 egg to hatch?

5. What enclosure you kept them in? All together?

6. When was the earliest date you let them be shipped?

7. When did they start feeding?

8. What you fed them?




So, we took a few measurements on the last baby for Research. I could go back on the others and do the same maybe in the future when I have time, but this is what we found so far.

Baby #2b

Weight on #2b

Weight on #2b

Length of #2b

Length of #2b

Tongue Length #2b

Tongue Length #2b


* Chris Anderson was able to help me figure out the “SVL” (Snout-Vent Length).

Figure out proportionately how long its tongue was relative to its body length.

~1.2 body lengths in this image. The reason I was interested in that is because there is some variation in how tongue projection length seems to relate to body length depending on how you are making the comparison (i.e. whether you are comparing within or among species). – Chris Anderson


Baby #2a







Baby #2c







Every morning now when I head up to the Lizard Room I anxiously look into the baby cage and Pray the last 2 make it. I don’t know if there is a “Safe” date that we can Assume this yolk is resorbed and they can go on about their lives and be Normal.

I would really enjoy seeing them grow and working with them daily to track their progress. This means the World to me. If it is meant to be it will. I can just hope for a Brighter Outcome of the last 2 and hope that I will have my hands full next year with my own babies.

I have a Sexually Active male (had sex last year), but only attempted this year. Then I was able to artificially inseminate 1 of my females with sperm from my other male, so we will see.

As for the Tests and Other Stuff 

I should hear back from the lab soon. I am also drawling up Necropsy Reports for my vet to sign off on. If I find more time I will unfreeze the babies and try and do a size study/measure SVL.

I will post this and then Re-Post this once I have the rest of the Information.

A Personal Thank you to ALL who have been there Supporting my Efforts and Helping me keep Focused. I Can’t Thank you enough and I hope that in time I can be a Expert and Help others grow this Passion for Melleri that I have.



Vet Visit 7.18.14

Who went to the vet today:

1. #1-Purple

2. #4-Raspberry

3. # 6-Hunter

4. #8-Lief

5. Apricot


Individual Details…


1. #1-Purple (Suspected Female Melleri Chameleon) – 129grams today


* Still eating on own.

* Color move “Vivid” green/yellow than before.

* Strength- Good

*Starting to be Aggressive, although handled daily. I suspect this act is going on because she is feeling better/healthier. Contributing factors could be the Importation Process that is Taxing on their systems/discourage liking people.

* Had mod mixed g- & g+ bacteria

* Had 92 days

*Gram Stain : 

1. Mouth – Normal

           *Meds: None


* vet – looks decent. There’s a little bit of liquid, but we will still see a little bit of mucus once in a while. Not seeing any redness. She looks good here.

* Medication: None

photo (45)

2. Exam 2

* vet – Colors look good.

* Wouldn’t hurt to give another Ivermectin injection today.

* Medication: Ivermectin # 2 Injection (0.025cc/0.1%)


* Right rear knee. Seems better now. (Old Traumatic Injury)

* Joint Problems – Usually joints stay enlarged once there.

* Medication: none






Given @ vet: Ivermectin #2

Given @ Home: None



Recheck if necessary


2. #4 – Raspberry (Confirmed Female Melleri Chameleon) 151grams


* Haven’t seen her eat on own in a week or 2, but haven’t spent a ton of time watching her.

* Been Syringe feeding Carnivore Care daily, a few times per day, along with Juice.

* Strength- weak and wobbly still. Seems to be worse. “Light on grip”

* Had 92 days

*Gram Stain : 

1. Mouth – Normal

           *Meds: None

* Mouth gram stain has been clean all 3 vet visits/94 days


* vet – normal

* Medication: None

2. EXAM 

* Knots still there (toes, elbow and hip) – likely from Bacteria in body/confirmed with DIF stain at last visit/on Zosyn from last visit

* Still dangles Left Front Leg/elbow enlarged

* X-Ray – get soon.

Possible: Laxity in elbow joint (xray will confirm this)

* Medication:  Amikacin & Robenacoxib




photo (37)

DIF Quick – Lymphocytes, Hetrophil, Bacteria G+/G- cocci


Given @ vet: Robenacoxib & 1st Amikacin injection

Given @ Home: Zosyn & Amikacin (.38mg)



Recheck after X-Ray


3. #6 – Hunter (Unknown Sex/Melleri Chameleon) 156grams


* Still eating on own.

* Color still “off” (grey and yellow/charcoal), sometimes hes green though (usually at night/sleeping)

* Strength- Good

* Had 92 days

*Gram Stain : 

1. Mouth – Normal

           *Meds: None


* Pale Mouth – giving vitamin injection to help

* Medication: Ivermectin #3 Treatment (.03) & Vitamins AD3/B Comp



Given @ vet: Ivermectin & Vitamin injection

Given @ Home: None



Recheck as needed


4. #8 – Lief – (Unknown Sex/Melleri Chameleon) 128grams




* Still eating on own.

* Still Syringe feeding 1cc of Carnivore Care Daily (60 day feeding – to insure health/immunity boost)

* Strength- Good

*Colors- Good

* Had rare mixed bacteria (6.13.14) – was given Amikacin (.21mg) & Vit injection

* Had 40 days

*Gram Stain : 

1. Mouth – Normal

           *Meds: None


* Seems Healthy, but want to boost immune system/clean out any parasites/problems

* Medication: Ivermectin (.021 of Ivermectin & 0.1%) and Vitamin AD3/BComplex



Given @ vet: Ivermectin & Vitamin injection

Given @ Home: None



Recheck as needed


5. Apricot (Female Panther Chameleon) 48grams


* Eating Crickets on own

* Skin Necrosis, needs treated

*Colors- Good

* Had 2 days

* Went ahead and cleaned wound with diluted betadine/qtip, then used Gentamicin Sulfate Cream, dressed wound – daily

* gram stained eye and mouth, gave Gentak Drops (in case she had bacteria that needed tended to before vet visit)

*Gram Stain : 

1. Mouth – Normal

2. Left Eye – Normal

           *Meds: None


* Seems Healthy, but want to boost immune system/clean out any parasites/problems

* Medication: Gentamicin Sulfate Ointment


ointment (petrolatum based) = keep moist and keep stuff out

cream (water-based) 


2. EYE

* Eye looks “irregular in shape”

* want to address if bacteria in eye noticed/gram stain. None noticed

*Vet- Iris hole is “smooth”, White pigment is “irregular” = natural for her. Developmental thing. Born with.

* Medication: None



* Pale

* Medication: Ivermectin #1 Treatment (.01 of .1%) & Vitamins AD3/BComplex

photo (43)


* Necrotic Tissue (Skin dead/not healthy)

* Had to happen within 7 days

* Thinks Thermal Burn vs. Bacteria infection (gram stain was clean)

 * Clean daily, reassess in a couple weeks.

* Sutures would probably come out, since skin is dead around hole

* Medication: Daily clean with diluted betadine/qtip, Gentamicin Sulfate Ointment/bandage




swabbing for bacteria to determine if needed more treatments other than ointment




* Vet – Thinks she has Protozoa, from Fecal “Smell”

* Medication: Metronidazole


Protozoa (Moves/swims). Metronidazole is given to kill it


Oral Deworming/Metronidazole to kill Protozoa


Given @ vet: Ivermectin #1 & Vitamin Injection

Given @ Home: Gentamicin Sulfate Cream



Recheck in 2 weeks



Vet Visit 7.14.14

Who went to the vet today:

1. Pip

2. Schaffer


Individual Details…


1. Pip (Male Melleri Chameleon) – 470grams today

photo (41)

* Still eating on own.

* Loosing weight, so this is a “sign” something is wrong

* Color still looks good, strength still good

* Increased Saliva “sign of mouth issue”

*Past couple visits – mouth was clean, but I noticed weight drop, and so this helped me to catch it early

* He has had some trouble “hand feeding”. He tries, but tongue isn’t “tacky” enough to catch the bugs.

*Gram Stain : 

1. Mouth – Thin rods/Trace g- here and there

           *Meds: Amikacin

1. MOUTH (Increased Saliva)

* vet – you are correct, and his gram stain is starting to show “trace g- rods”.

* I knew the past couple weeks something wasn’t right, but his gram stains were “clean” so, we didn’t put on meds, but I saw weight drop and put him on Amikacin (I had on hand) a few days before the last vet visit.

* Medication: Amikacin (1.18mg – 8 injections- every 72hrs.)

* Why Amikacin over Zosyn. I personally think Amikacin has helped more than Zosyn in my experience with Pip. He has been on both separately and together. Amikacin can tax the kidneys, so I will monitor his water intake and make sure he gets what he needs. Hornworms as well to increase fluid intake.



Given @ vet: none

Given @ Home: Amikacin


Mouth Culture:

taken before meds, to send to lab to test bacteria



Recheck in a couple weeks.


2. Schaffer (Male Nosey Be Panther Chameleon) 38grams

photo (41)


* 8 months old

*  Haven’t seen eating on own, doesn’t surprise me, if his mouth hurts

* Color still looks good, strength still good. (Color looks best in shower/of right after/bright blue)

* Drinking water well.

*Just got surrendered to me the day before, was taken to vet and prescribed Amikacin, but guy didn’t think he was well. (He was correct)

*Gram Stain : 

1. Mouth – Moderate – Mod Severe G+ Staph Diplococci

* FIRST time seen in chameleons

           *Meds: Azithromycin- BEST thing for Gram + Staph!

* Was taken to a different vet before this visit. The vet did not do a gram stain. If they would have checked, then could have learned he has Staph Diplococci and that Amikacin (used as a Broad Spectrum Antibiotic), would not work. $120 later, he wasn’t going to be feeling any better and would need another vet visit.  Why it can PAY FOR ITSELF AND SAVE YOUR CHAMELEONS LIFE, to find a PROPER CHAMELEON VET!

1. MOUTH (tooth infection?)6.6.14 noticed

* Crustie was taken from side of mouth by tweezers at home. Didn’t see infected tooth. Mouth just looked “pale”


Left side of mouth, crusties on top lip, easily removed with tweezers. * Due to excess mouth saliva from mouth infection




* vet – has Staph Diplococci (shown on gram stain).

* RBC are low so pale colored mouth. He more than likely has other things going on inside of him. (That the oral dewormer is not going to get). Why we are going with Ivermectin.

* Medication: Ivermectin Injection (instead of Oral dewormer)

When Staph Grows: when it grows, it produces toxins, and those toxins WILL POISON THEM!


Mouth should have a “pinkish” tint to it. -because of RBC.


Looking over the mouth can give you indication for a problem

3. SKIN (noticed upon arrival- 7/13/14)

* vet – not for sure if from old lesion or what?

* Medication: Oral Azithromycin

* Just go with Oral meds. We may lance that in the future. So he can be on Antibiotics 1-1/2 weeks before. To help cut down infection.


Skin lesion




* vet – the acidity of the Amikacin injection is why the skin has discolored/turned white. It will come back to normal.



Given @ vet: Ivermectin

Given @ Home: Azithromycin


Recheck in a couple weeks.